Here is a pic of the rad bracket installed.
I wont drill the holes for the rad just yet.I will wait and get some of the hoses to gauge exactly the best location.
Unfortunately my car cover has a small rip in it,and it has rained alot over the past few days.The drivers side floor filled up with water.I had to drill a small hole in the floor to drain out the water,and where there was small bits of swarf from drilling holes in the chassis,rust spots have formed all over the floor.Most of these have just wiped off,as I generously sprayed the floor with wd40 afted fitting it,but some might need a bit of a scrub!!
Not the end of the world,but it does look really messy.

Having run out of materials/money to continue with the brake lines,I decided to have a go at making some radiator brackets.
I have seen this done three different ways on three different cars.
Above you can see one bent to shape,and one ready to be bent.
Below is my bending setup.Sheet clamped into vice,using ally angle as vice jaws.

And here is the part after whacking it with a big hammer lots and lots of times...

Here it is after the second bend...

And after drilling the holes for riveting to the chassis...

All I have to do now is pray that it fits under the bonnet!!!
(I guessed the position using others pictures)

front brake lines

OK. I think I have the brake line theory sorted.
Here is my attempt at the front. I need to get the flexible hoses to go into the calipers,and the master cylinders. But the framework is done.
Please let me know if I have made any glaring mistakes!!!

bracket

The brake line T pieces come with 6mm bolt holes,and the usual way of attaching these was to use 6mm rivnuts in the chassis rails,and attach the T piece to it.
The IVA scrutineering procedure now deems this method not good enough,as far as I know.
So I have made some brackets out of 1.5mm aluminium,left over from the seat backs...


Here is the front one mounted,with the T piece
bolted through the bracket,using a nylock nut.


And here is the rear one,complete with stone guard,as it is open to the road...


Cheers James.

lines

I am collecting parts to run the fuel and brake lines...



Here is my first attempt using the flaring tool...


Not bad,I reckon?

Sorry for no update.
I have been busy.
I have added the front hubs to the uprights,and ordered a torque wrench.It then took ages to find a 27mm socket for a 3/8 dr torq wrench!! In hind sight I should have ordered a 1/2 inch dr wrench!!
I found one eventually,it cost more than the wrench!!I am waiting for it to arrive.
I have spent most of the time "fettling" the seat back panels. I drilled holes at the top and bottom of the panels when I didnt need to.So I made new panels. The corresponding holes in the chassis,I filled with sikaflex,smoothed level with a knife blade,then keyed with wire wool and painted with hammerite. I then bought a strip of self adhesive 4mm thick neoprene strip. A strip along the top,and one across the bottom attached to the chassis,and all is well. I found that getting the hang of using rivnuts took a little getting used to.The first few had to be drilled out as I had used too much force installing them,and the bolts fouled on the pinched rivnut section.Also when drilling the holes for the rivnuts down the sides of the seat back panels,the drill had to be held at an angle due to the side chassis bracing,this resulted in the holes being drilled at an angle of +/-30 degrees. the rivnuts however attached to the chassis square,which meant that the holes in the panels did not line up as well as they should.So I took the opportunity to address this when making the new panels. All has been test fitted and all bolts are square,and freely bolt in and out. What a pain,but I feel much better knowing it all fits nicely now.
I have ordered the fuel lines,and brake lines,along with appropriate insulated P clips and fittings,and have finally got my grubby mitts on a draft build manual,whch has already cleared alot of the confusion that was taking up alot of time.
Cheers for now,James.